Monday, November 19, 2012

Venice

Once you see Venice you will never forget it.  This may sound obvious, but the first time I saw this beautiful city I  was only 8 years old...and the impression it made on me as a young girl remained with me until I saw it again this year.  I remember being in awe of the canals and the beautiful buildings.  I remember buying two little treasures... glass bluebird earrings, and a tiny mauve glass fawn.  They became my most precious possessions!  I always wanted to go back and visit the city as an adult, and so on this trip to Italy, I made sure we pencilled in a day to visit this city on water.




It was everything I remembered...but for two things.  There were way more tourists than I recalled...and not as many pigeons gathered in St. Mark's Square! 

It was a long day.  We left Florence first thing in the morning and took the train to the main terminal in Venice.  As soon as we got outside, the city spilled out in front of us and was dazzling right from the start.  We wanted to do a lot of walking, as opposed to travelling on water.  First thing in the morning it isin't so bad...but the later in the day it got, the more crowded it became.  I just do not like being in crowds. 15 million people a year come here... Venice is almost like an adult Disneyland!  No rides, but lots of people!  I just wanted to absorb the sights and sounds.






We walked around the entire city.  It is made up of 117 islands and has 150 canals connected by bridges.  We enjoyed the main thoroughfairs, but also got some respite by venturing off the main walkways and getting lost in the alleys.  The architecture really is magnificent, and the canals are so clean!  Surprising, since Venice has no sewer system.  Sewage flows from homes into the canals and is swept out to the ocean with the tides.  But don't get me wrong, you didn't see any waste in the water, and there was absolutely no litter.






Venice is slowly sinking.  The level of the land has lowered, and the sea levels have risen.  Major flooding regularly occurs now between November and March.




One of the most photographed images in Venice is that of the Gondolas and the gondoliers.  There are about 400 in use today to transport visitors back and forth along the many canals.  By law the gondolas are painted with black lacquer.  They are made of 8 different types of wood and are composed of 280 pieces.  To be a gondolier you need to obtain a special license issued by a guild.  Especially noteworthy...in 2010 the first woman was licensed to become a gondolier!



 
 
 


By the time we reached St. Mark's square we were exhausted.  We just did not have the appetite to stand in line to go inside the church...but we had worked up an appetite to eat!  We were starving and ended up sitting down at a little cafe for some delicious Calamari and a glass of white wine.  It was great fun to just sit back and people watch!


 
 
 


Later I did a little shopping.  I wanted to bring home some masks.  I found out there are three types of masks...the beautiful handmade masks that are worth a fortune...there are factory made masks made in Italy...and there are Venetian masks made in China!  I thought that was a joke when I was told that...but sure enough...many of the cheap ones are made in China.  It was very easy to tell the difference between the most expensive masks and the least expensive.  The handmade ones are simply stunning works of art.  I bought a few of the factory made in Italy masks.  They were just too fun to resist!



 

What I did not know about was the history of the mask that features the long beak.  It originated in the 17th Century.  A Doctor donned this mask to treat bubonic plague victims.  The mask was white and he wore a black cloak with it and a black hat.  He wore white gloves and carried a stick to move the bodies.  It was hoped all of this would help prevent him from catching the dreaded disease. Other Doctors followed suit.  This is a modern day version of the beaked mask...I love it!





At the end of the day we were ready to go home.  We had a little time to kill so we stopped to have a drink.  Our waiter asked if we wanted a small beer or a big beer.  Jim asked for a big glass of draft ... and this is what he got!!!  Luckily the train had restrooms...or we would have been in trouble! 




This was probably the last time I will see Venice...and I am so glad we spent the day here.  It truly is one of the most beautiful cities on earth...and it may not be around forever.  The ocean may claim this jewel one day...and only divers will be able to enjoy it.